- Hello, my new Martin has high string height over the first fret. I have the tools and skills to cut the nut slots deeper. Although I have not been able to get a spec on what they should be at. Most of guitars are close to.4mm string hieght at the first fret.
- John Carruthers shows us the proper way to adjust the Nut on a Stratocaster. This video is step 3 of a 4 part series. Videos include adjusting the Truss Ro.
The nut serves to define and maintain the spacing of the strings, and to hold them at the proper height. If the nut is too low, the string will bump into the first fret when it is played and it will 'buzz,' even if the rest of the instrument is properly set up and working well.
Many guitar players believe that you're not really serious about guitar playing until you buy custom made instruments from a luthier, or even build your own guitar. That may be true, but for me and my kind of music, an off-the-shelf Guild or Martin or Taylor is just right. There is only one thing about buying off-the-rack acoustic steel string guitars that really, really sucks, and that's the setup, or rather, the lack of it.By guitar setup, I mean what many people refer to as the action of the guitar. Generally speaking, the action refers to the size of the gaps between the strings and the frets. Most people are aware of two variables that they can tweak to set the action: the saddle height and the curvature of the neck, the latter commonly being referred to as the neck relief. Typically, people adjust the saddle height so that the gap between the strings and the twelfth fret is some value that they like, and they set the neck relief so that when a string is depressed at the first and the fourteenth fret, there remains a very small gap between the string and the sixth fret, about the thickness of a business card.
Somewhat surprisingly, not too many people pay attention to the fact that rather obviously, the strings rest not only on the saddle, but also at the opposite end in the slots of the string nut, and therefore, the depth of these slots is a a third variable that affects the size of the gap between the strings and the frets. As a matter of fact, the effect that the slot depth at the nut has on the playability of the guitar is dramatic. Suppose first that the slots were very deep, so that the gap between the strings and the first fret became very small. Then an open, unfretted string would buzz on the first fret. You have probably never experienced that, certainly not on a new guitar. You know why? Because on a new guitar that comes off the shelf and not from a luthier, you almost always have the opposite: the slots in the string nuts are not nearly deep enough, resulting in a larger-than-necessary gap between the string and the first fret.
Now imagine your index finger when you're fretting the C chord, and suppose the slot for the B string is not very deep, so that the B string is high above the first fret, like this:
more.. Gear • How-Tos • DIY • Upkeep • Bass Gear • January 2013Step 3:Inspect the Nut Slots
Correct Nut Slot Height Calculator
Next, we check the nut slotsand the string height at this endof the neck.
1. Tune up.
2. Hold each string downon the 2nd fret and lookat the space between thebottom of the string andthe top of the 1st fret(Photo 9). We want thisclearance to be as smallas possible, yet when youplay the open string, youdon't want to hear it buzzagainst the 1st fret. If theclearance is insufficient,you'll get a buzz.
9. Checking action at the 1st fret while holding the string against the 2nd fret. In addition to eyeballing the clearance,tap the string against the fret to determine the distance between them. 10. Deepening the 2nd-string nutslot.
For bass guitar, a goodmiddle-of-the-road clearanceover the 1st fret (with thestring still pressed against the2nd fret) would be the thicknessof one business card. Harvey's resort lake tahoe. Ifthe string has more than thatamount of space, the respectivenut slot may need to be deepened(Photo 10) so the actionat the 1st and 2nd frets is lowenough to play comfortablyand you don't pull the stringssharp trying to press themagainst the frets.
Anyone can get nut filesfrom Stewart-MacDonald(stewmac.com) or LuthiersMercantile (lmii.com), but thereis more to cutting a proper nutslot than just making a groove.It needs to be exactly the propersize for each string. The slotmust hold a string firmly inplace so it can't move around orsympathetically vibrate againstthe sides of the nut slot, butnot be so tight that the stringbinds and hangs in the slot andthen goes out of tune when it'sstretched or played.
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Also, the slot needs to be gentlyangled downward as it pointsback toward the headstock (Photo11). The string must 'speak' fromthe nut's front edge—right wherethe nut touches the fretboard andnot somewhere inside the nut slot.(If a string rests on a point insidethe slot, rather than at the leadingedge, this can create a 'sitar' effector cause a string to play out-oftunealong the fretboard.)
11. A slot needs to be gently angled downward as it points back toward the headstock and the string must'speak' from the nut's front edge—right where the nut touches the fretboard. 12. When deepening a nut slot,recheck the 1st-fret action after a few light strokes with the file.
If you deepen a nut slot,work very slowly and frequentlyrecheck the action at the 1st fretafter a stroke or two of the nutfile (Photo 12).
If a string touches the 1stfret when you press it againstthe 2nd fret, then the nut slotis too low. The offending slotwill have to be filled and thenfine-tuned with a nut file, orthe nut itself shimmed to gainmore height, or you need tofabricate a new nut. Sonicallyand mechanically, the latter isthe best option. If you're notcomfortable tackling this project,see your repair tech. [Fordetailed explanations on cuttinga bone nut, visit premierguitar.com and read 'How to ConvertYour Axe to a Baritone,' 'Howto Intonate a Flattop Guitar,'and 'How to Convert a Flattopto Nashville Tuning' in theMarch, April, and September2012 issues.]
Step 4:Adjust Saddle Height
Now we're ready to check andadjust string height at thebridge.
13. Measuring the distance between the 4th string and 12th fret with aprecision metal ruler. 14. Measuring the distance between the 1st stringand 12th fret.
1. Tune up. (This is automaticby now, right?)
2. At the 12th fret, measurethe distance between thebottom of each string andthe top of the fret (Photos13 and 14).
3. Using the appropriatewrench, adjust each saddleup or down to the desiredheight (Photos 15 and 16).
Naturally, string actionhas to be adjusted for anindividual's playing style. Ifyou have a light touch andplay very technically, youcan get away with slightlylower action. However,you'll want a somewhathigher action if you loveto dig into the stringsand produce big, clear,sustaining tones. By experimenting,you'll eventuallydetermine the ideal actionfor your music—and that'sthe beauty of learning howto do a setup yourself.
For a middle-of-theroadaction, I set the bassside of a 4-string (the Estring in standard tuning)to 7/64', and then setthe treble side (G string)to 5/64'. I then graduatethe heights as I go acrossthe fretboard, making it6+/64' on the A string and6-/64' on the D string.
The goal is to graduallymake the strings go fromhigher to lower as theycross the fretboard fromthe bass to treble side.With multi-string basses(5, 6, and more), continuethis concept across thestrings by adding someheight for lower stringsand shaving a little off forhigher ones.
15. Adjusting saddle height for the 1st string.16. Anotherview of saddle-height adjustment. Here, the 2nd string is being raised.
17. Once the neck relief, nut slots, and basic saddle height have all beenadjusted, it's a good time to check fret condition.
Step 5:Evaluate Your Frets
Once you have the strings closeto their proper height with theinstrument at pitch and theprevious adjustments dialed in,you can really see if the frets arelevel all the way along the fretboard.We're now at the stage inthe setup where fret problemswill be revealed (Photo 17).
High or low frets, loosefrets, and even dead spots fromthe buildup of gunk and funkthat gradually seeps betweenthe frets and fretboard over theyears can create inconsistentstring vibration, so be on thelookout for these problems.
Speaking of fret condition,if you notice that evenafter being tuned to pitch andintonated (which we will getto in a moment), your bassdoes not play in tune withitself on some notes, check tosee whether your frets have anice round crown on top or ifthey're flat. Frets that are wornflat will allow the string to readfrom either the front edge ofthe fret and play sharp, or readfrom the back side of the fretand create a sitar-like sound.Having your frets in level,crowned, tip-top condition isessential for optimal playability,focused sound, and spot-onintonation. Fretwork is definitelythe domain of a trustedrepair technician.
Step 6:Adjust Intonation
Now we're ready to check andadjust intonation. Unless thestrings are fresh, install a newset before going any further.
Intonating your instrumentinvolves individually adjustingthe length of each string so itsnotes are in tune along the entirefretboard. To do this, it's best touse a strobe tuner (Photo 18)because it lets you visually trackincremental pitch changes inboth a note's fundamental vibrationand its overtones.
18. A strobe tuner or pedalwith strobe functions providessuperior visual feedback forsetting intonation.19. Properly wound stringswrap from the top of the postto its bottom. The wrapsshould lie tight against oneanother and not overlap.
Before we start, here aresome tuning tips to consider.In my experience, you'll end upwith a more stable tuning if youcome up to pitch from below.By tuning up, you reduce thepossibility of slack being in thestring that could release whileyou're playing.
Also, be sure the windingsprogress around the post sequentiallyfrom top to bottom—withno overlapping—and that thesewinds are snug or butted upagainst each other so they can'tmove around (Photo 19).
Stretching is important too.I spend time stretching stringswhen they're new. Usually tuningup to pitch and stretching a stringsix to eight times will get it stable.There's no need to really yank—applying a firm upward pull asyou move along the string's entireplaying length is sufficient.
1. After your strings areproperly installed,stretched, and all tuned topitch, start with the loweststring and make sure it'sin tune while you play itopen. Then, on the samestring, play the note at the12th fret. The open stringis your reference, and the12th-fret note—which isan octave higher—shouldalso be in tune withoutyou touching the string'stuning machine. If the12th-fret tone isn't in tune,you'll make adjustments atthe saddle to raise or lowerthe fretted note's pitchuntil that note is in tunewith the open string.
With that in mind, alsotake care to play the 12th-fretnote as if you wereperforming it—not withless or more pressure thanyou'd use to play the notewhile you're onstage. Hp tape library 48 slots online.
2. If the high octave—thefretted note—is sharperthan the open pitch, thismeans the speaking lengthof your string is too short.That is, the distancebetween the fretted octaveand the saddle is too small.If that's the case, you needto make the string slightlylonger by moving the saddleaway from the neck.
Conversely, if the frettedoctave is flatter thanthe open string, the vibratingsection of the stringbetween the 12th fret andsaddle is too long andneeds to be shortened atad. To do this, move thesaddle toward the neck.
Different basses havedifferent processes forshifting the saddle backwardor forward (Photo20). This can includeloosening setscrews toallow the saddles to haveforward and backwardmotion. If you're notsure how your saddlesoperate, consult theowner‘s manual thatcame with your bass orgo online to research theparticular bridge.
3. After the bottom string isintonated, move to the 3rdstring, then the 2nd, andfinally the 1st.
20. Using a Phillips screwdriver toshift the 2nd-string saddle backward.21. Checking the low-E'ssecond-octave fifth interval—that'sB at the 19th fret—with a tuner tosee how it's intonating after theoctave has been adjusted.
Tip: Make small adjustmentsand always retune before makinganother adjustment. Be patient—it's a painstaking process, but wellworth the time investment.
Once I get the 12-fret octavesin tune with their respectiveopen strings, I like to check ifthe fifth of each open string isin tune. For example, assumingmy 4th string is tuned to E—standard tuning—the fifth is B,which occurs at the 7th fret andalso one octave higher at the19th fret (Photo 21).
Large T Slot Nuts
There are articles and booksthat explain the math behindthe 12-tone, equal-temperedtuning system that Westerninstruments—including the bassguitar—are designed around. It'sbeyond the scope of this DIYtutorial to delve into the detailsof equal temperament, but in anutshell, the system presumesthat your octaves are perfectlyin tune. All other intervals arefudged by a few cents from theirpure harmonic form to allow theoctave to be evenly divided into12 notes, or half-steps. (Eachhalf-step consists of 100 cents.)
11. A slot needs to be gently angled downward as it points back toward the headstock and the string must'speak' from the nut's front edge—right where the nut touches the fretboard. 12. When deepening a nut slot,recheck the 1st-fret action after a few light strokes with the file.
If you deepen a nut slot,work very slowly and frequentlyrecheck the action at the 1st fretafter a stroke or two of the nutfile (Photo 12).
If a string touches the 1stfret when you press it againstthe 2nd fret, then the nut slotis too low. The offending slotwill have to be filled and thenfine-tuned with a nut file, orthe nut itself shimmed to gainmore height, or you need tofabricate a new nut. Sonicallyand mechanically, the latter isthe best option. If you're notcomfortable tackling this project,see your repair tech. [Fordetailed explanations on cuttinga bone nut, visit premierguitar.com and read 'How to ConvertYour Axe to a Baritone,' 'Howto Intonate a Flattop Guitar,'and 'How to Convert a Flattopto Nashville Tuning' in theMarch, April, and September2012 issues.]
Step 4:Adjust Saddle Height
Now we're ready to check andadjust string height at thebridge.
13. Measuring the distance between the 4th string and 12th fret with aprecision metal ruler. 14. Measuring the distance between the 1st stringand 12th fret.
1. Tune up. (This is automaticby now, right?)
2. At the 12th fret, measurethe distance between thebottom of each string andthe top of the fret (Photos13 and 14).
3. Using the appropriatewrench, adjust each saddleup or down to the desiredheight (Photos 15 and 16).
Naturally, string actionhas to be adjusted for anindividual's playing style. Ifyou have a light touch andplay very technically, youcan get away with slightlylower action. However,you'll want a somewhathigher action if you loveto dig into the stringsand produce big, clear,sustaining tones. By experimenting,you'll eventuallydetermine the ideal actionfor your music—and that'sthe beauty of learning howto do a setup yourself.
For a middle-of-theroadaction, I set the bassside of a 4-string (the Estring in standard tuning)to 7/64', and then setthe treble side (G string)to 5/64'. I then graduatethe heights as I go acrossthe fretboard, making it6+/64' on the A string and6-/64' on the D string.
The goal is to graduallymake the strings go fromhigher to lower as theycross the fretboard fromthe bass to treble side.With multi-string basses(5, 6, and more), continuethis concept across thestrings by adding someheight for lower stringsand shaving a little off forhigher ones.
15. Adjusting saddle height for the 1st string.16. Anotherview of saddle-height adjustment. Here, the 2nd string is being raised.
17. Once the neck relief, nut slots, and basic saddle height have all beenadjusted, it's a good time to check fret condition.
Step 5:Evaluate Your Frets
Once you have the strings closeto their proper height with theinstrument at pitch and theprevious adjustments dialed in,you can really see if the frets arelevel all the way along the fretboard.We're now at the stage inthe setup where fret problemswill be revealed (Photo 17).
High or low frets, loosefrets, and even dead spots fromthe buildup of gunk and funkthat gradually seeps betweenthe frets and fretboard over theyears can create inconsistentstring vibration, so be on thelookout for these problems.
Speaking of fret condition,if you notice that evenafter being tuned to pitch andintonated (which we will getto in a moment), your bassdoes not play in tune withitself on some notes, check tosee whether your frets have anice round crown on top or ifthey're flat. Frets that are wornflat will allow the string to readfrom either the front edge ofthe fret and play sharp, or readfrom the back side of the fretand create a sitar-like sound.Having your frets in level,crowned, tip-top condition isessential for optimal playability,focused sound, and spot-onintonation. Fretwork is definitelythe domain of a trustedrepair technician.
Step 6:Adjust Intonation
Now we're ready to check andadjust intonation. Unless thestrings are fresh, install a newset before going any further.
Intonating your instrumentinvolves individually adjustingthe length of each string so itsnotes are in tune along the entirefretboard. To do this, it's best touse a strobe tuner (Photo 18)because it lets you visually trackincremental pitch changes inboth a note's fundamental vibrationand its overtones.
18. A strobe tuner or pedalwith strobe functions providessuperior visual feedback forsetting intonation.19. Properly wound stringswrap from the top of the postto its bottom. The wrapsshould lie tight against oneanother and not overlap.
Before we start, here aresome tuning tips to consider.In my experience, you'll end upwith a more stable tuning if youcome up to pitch from below.By tuning up, you reduce thepossibility of slack being in thestring that could release whileyou're playing.
Also, be sure the windingsprogress around the post sequentiallyfrom top to bottom—withno overlapping—and that thesewinds are snug or butted upagainst each other so they can'tmove around (Photo 19).
Stretching is important too.I spend time stretching stringswhen they're new. Usually tuningup to pitch and stretching a stringsix to eight times will get it stable.There's no need to really yank—applying a firm upward pull asyou move along the string's entireplaying length is sufficient.
1. After your strings areproperly installed,stretched, and all tuned topitch, start with the loweststring and make sure it'sin tune while you play itopen. Then, on the samestring, play the note at the12th fret. The open stringis your reference, and the12th-fret note—which isan octave higher—shouldalso be in tune withoutyou touching the string'stuning machine. If the12th-fret tone isn't in tune,you'll make adjustments atthe saddle to raise or lowerthe fretted note's pitchuntil that note is in tunewith the open string.
With that in mind, alsotake care to play the 12th-fretnote as if you wereperforming it—not withless or more pressure thanyou'd use to play the notewhile you're onstage. Hp tape library 48 slots online.
2. If the high octave—thefretted note—is sharperthan the open pitch, thismeans the speaking lengthof your string is too short.That is, the distancebetween the fretted octaveand the saddle is too small.If that's the case, you needto make the string slightlylonger by moving the saddleaway from the neck.
Conversely, if the frettedoctave is flatter thanthe open string, the vibratingsection of the stringbetween the 12th fret andsaddle is too long andneeds to be shortened atad. To do this, move thesaddle toward the neck.
Different basses havedifferent processes forshifting the saddle backwardor forward (Photo20). This can includeloosening setscrews toallow the saddles to haveforward and backwardmotion. If you're notsure how your saddlesoperate, consult theowner‘s manual thatcame with your bass orgo online to research theparticular bridge.
3. After the bottom string isintonated, move to the 3rdstring, then the 2nd, andfinally the 1st.
20. Using a Phillips screwdriver toshift the 2nd-string saddle backward.21. Checking the low-E'ssecond-octave fifth interval—that'sB at the 19th fret—with a tuner tosee how it's intonating after theoctave has been adjusted.
Tip: Make small adjustmentsand always retune before makinganother adjustment. Be patient—it's a painstaking process, but wellworth the time investment.
Once I get the 12-fret octavesin tune with their respectiveopen strings, I like to check ifthe fifth of each open string isin tune. For example, assumingmy 4th string is tuned to E—standard tuning—the fifth is B,which occurs at the 7th fret andalso one octave higher at the19th fret (Photo 21).
Large T Slot Nuts
There are articles and booksthat explain the math behindthe 12-tone, equal-temperedtuning system that Westerninstruments—including the bassguitar—are designed around. It'sbeyond the scope of this DIYtutorial to delve into the detailsof equal temperament, but in anutshell, the system presumesthat your octaves are perfectlyin tune. All other intervals arefudged by a few cents from theirpure harmonic form to allow theoctave to be evenly divided into12 notes, or half-steps. (Eachhalf-step consists of 100 cents.)
In practical terms, onceyou've intonated each stringso the octave is in tune withits corresponding open string,you may find that the fifth—acrucial note for bassists—isdisagreeably out of tune. Thiscan be a result of equal-temperament'fudging' and how itaffects fret placement, but alsothe thickness and material of agiven string can contribute tothe issue. We are, after all, simplystretching wire into differentvibrating lengths to makemusic—a primitive schemewhen you think about it.
If it happens, let's say, thatthe 19th-fret B on the 4th stringis a little sharp, but the octave isdead on, I may fudge the intonationa little bit to favor the Bnote. This entails moving thesaddle back slightly to reducethe sharpness of the B. It's atricky and imperfect game—youdon't want to put your octavenoticeably out of tune becausethen the whole equal-temperedtuning system collapses.
If you find large discrepanciesbetween the correctlytuned open string and itsoctave relative to other intervals,seek out an experiencedrepair technician who can helpyou diagnose and remedy suchintonation troubles. There area lot of techniques available toaddress this particular dilemma.
Step 7:Check Electronics
As a part of my setups, I also include a thorough electronics check.Dirty pots, loose pots or jacks, and loose knobs can all interrupt theseamless connection between performer and instrument. Often thescratchy sound from a dirty pot can be remedied with a squirt ofcontact cleaner. This requires disassembly, and depending on yourinstrument, you may want to have your tech handle it.
As you troubleshoot and adjust your instrument, remember thatthe aim is to remove everything that can distract or hinder youfrom playing music. Between you and an experienced repair technician,you should be able to achieve this goal. Good luck!